A Yacht Voyage to Norway, Denmark, and Sweden / 2nd edition

Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Barbara Kosker and the
Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

Transcriber’s Note

Hover mouse over Greek words for a transliteration.

Errata listed on Page viii have been corrected in the text.




A

YACHT VOYAGE

TO

NORWAY,

DENMARK, AND SWEDEN.

BY

W. A. ROSS, ESQ.

Ver erat: errabam: Zephyrus conspexit: abibam:

Insequitur: fugio. Ovid. Fast., Lib. v.

Second Edition.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1849.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY T. R. HARRISON,
ST. MARTIN’S LANE.

TO

AN AMIABLE AND A GENEROUS FRIEND,

ROBERT, LORD RODNEY,

I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME,

IN TOKEN

OF ADMIRATION, GRATITUDE,

AND

AFFECTION.


CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Departure from Greenwich—The History of the Iris Yacht—Sheerness—Harwich—Under Weigh—The North Sea—Sail in Sight—The Mail Overboard—Speaking the Norwegian1
CHAPTER II.
Foggy Weather—First View of Norway—Christiansand Fiord—Arrival at Christiansand—Description of the Town—The Toptdal River—Excursion Inland—The Enthusiastic Angler—Rustic Lodgings—Hunting the Bear—The Trap—The Death—Norwegian Liberality13
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Christiansand—The Pilot’s Pram—Skaw Point—Delinquencies of Jacko—Expensive Cannonading—Elsineur—Hamlet’s Walk—The Minister, Struensee—Story of Queen Caroline-Matilda—Legend of the Serf46
CHAPTER IV.
The Pilot—Tempestuous Weather—Distant View of Copenhagen—Lord Nelson—The Battle of the Baltic—The Harbour-Master—Interest excited by the Yacht’s Arrival—The Artist—The Angler—We go Ashore58
CHAPTER V.
Copenhagen—The Cape—The Dilemma—The Guard—Compliment to England—Description of the Harbour and Fortifications— Delinquent Sailors—The City on Sunday—Negro Commissionaire—A Walk through the City—Notices of the various Public Buildings74
CHAPTER VI.
The Casino—The Royal Family of Denmark—Succession to Holstein—The English Consul—Visit to the English Ambassador—Colossal Statue of Christian the Fifth—Anecdote of Belzoni—Trinity Church—Extraordinary Feat of Peter the Great—Ducking an Offender—Palace of Christiansborg—The Exchange—The Castle of Rosenberg91
CHAPTER VII.
Dinner at the Embassy—Manners and Customs of the Danes—The Spanish Ambassador and the English Exile—The Citadel—Story of the Two Captives—Joe Washimtum, again—A Danish Dinner—Visit to the Theatre—Political Reflections—Festivities on Board the Yacht—Merry Party at the American Ambassador’s—The Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein106
CHAPTER VIII.
The Exile’s Souvenir—The Disappointed Artist—Departure from Copenhagen—Arrival at Elsineur—Description of the Town—The Castle of Cronenborg—Hamlet’s Garden—Esrom Lake—The Legend of Esrom Monastery—The French War-Steamer—Sailing up the Cattegat140
CHAPTER IX.
Arrival at Falkenborg—The Storm—The Yacht in Danger—Safe Anchorage—Visit to Falkenborg—Ludicrous Adventure—A Drive into the Interior—Great Scarcity experienced by the Inhabitants—Description of the Country—The Disappointed Anglers—Kongsbacka—The Yacht runs aground—Gottenborg154
CHAPTER X.
The Casino at Gottenborg—Awkward Dilemma—The Watchman and the Northern Star—Swedish Artillery—The Grove—An Old Man’s History—The Alarm of Fire—The Carriage overturned—The River Gotha—Washing in the Stream—The Narrow Streets—Description of Gottenborg—Its Decayed Commerce—The Herring Fishery172
CHAPTER XI.
Return to Norway—Sail up the Gulf—Approach to Christiania—Its Appearance from the Water—Anecdote of Bernadotte—Description of the City—The Fortress—Charles the XIIth—The Convicts—Story of the Captured Cannon—The Highwayman—Prospect from the Mountains—The Norwegian Peasant Girl204
CHAPTER XII.
A Drive into the Interior—Extensive and Sublime Prospect—Norwegian Post-Houses—Repair of the Roads—Preparations for Departure215
CHAPTER XIII.
The Yacht under sail—Jacko overboard—Fredricksværn—The Union Jack—Scenery on the Larvig River—Transit of Timber—Salmon Fishing—The Defeated Angler—Ludicrous Adventure with an Eagle—Result of the Angling Expedition—The Bevy of Ladies—Norwegian Dinner-Party, Singular and Amusing Customs240
CHAPTER XIV
Another Fishing Excursion—Landing a Salmon—The Carriole—Boats rowed by Ladies—Departure from Larvig—Christiansand Harbour—Return to Boom—Sincere Welcome—Angling at the Falls—The Forsaken Angler—A Misunderstanding—Reconciliation—St. John’s Day—Simplicity of Manners260
CHAPTER XV.
Sailing up the Gron Fiord—Dangerous Swell—Excursion Ashore—Trout-Fishing—Mountain Scenery—Ant-Hills—Hazardous Drive—The Scottish Emigrant—Miserable Lodging—Condition of the Peasantry—A Village Patriarch—Costume of the Country People—Arrival at Fædde287
CHAPTER XVI.
Return to the Yacht—Poor Jacko—Ascending the Stream—Description of the Fædde Fiord—Adventures of an Angler—Sail to the Bukke Fiord—The Fathomless Lake—The Maniac, and her History—The Village of Sand—Extraordinary Peculiarities of the Sand Salmon—Seal Hunting—Shooting Gulls—The Seal caught—Night in the North303
CHAPTER XVII.
The Dangerous Straits—British Seamanship—The Glaciers of Folgefonde—Bergen—Habits of the Fishermen—The Sogne Fiord—Leerdal—Arrival at Auron—A Hospitable Host— Ascending the Mountains—The Two Shepherdesses—Hunting the Rein-Deer—Adventure on the Mountains—Slaughtering Deer—The Fawn336
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Sick Sailor—The Storm—The Lee-Shore—”Breakers a-head”—The Yacht in Distress—Weathering the Storm—Return to Bergen—The Physician—The Whirlpool—The Water-Spout—Homeward Bound—Scarborough—Yarmouth Roads—Erith— Greenwich Hospital—Conclusion397

ERRATA.

Page
79, line 14, for “Nelson,” read “Gambier.”
92, omit “to the eye.”
100, line 12, for “Nelson’s,” read “Gambier’s.”
145, last line, for “Braggesen,” read “Baggesen.”
165, line 31, for “they had endured,” read “each of them had endured.”
201, line 9, read “as here at Gottenborg.”
239, line 33, for “immovably,” read “immoveably.”
243, line 6, for “jibbed,” read “jibed.”
286, line 18, for “everywhere,” read “ever where.”
327, line 10, for “than me,” read “than I.”
338, line 31, for “jibbing,” read “jibing.”

A YACHT VOYAGE

TO

NORWAY, SWEDEN, & DENMARK.


CHAPTER I.

DEPARTURE FROM GREENWICH—THE HISTORY OF THE IRIS YACHT—SHEERNESS—HARWICH—UNDER WEIGH—THE NORTH SEA—SAIL IN SIGHT—THE MAIL OVERBOARD—SPEAKING THE NORWEGIAN.

I believe the old Italian proverb says, that every man, before he dies, should do three things: “Get a son, build a house, and write a book.” Now, whether or not I am desirous, by beginning at the end, to end at the beginning of this quaint axiom, I leave the reader to conjecture. My book may afford amusement to him who will smile when I am glad, and sympathise with the impressions I have caught in other moods of mind; but I have little affinity of feeling, and less companionship with him who expects to see pictures of life coloured differently from those I have beheld.

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